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My Best Surf Trip Was Bali And Sumbawa With True Blue.
Trevor Paul
It’s the first time I’d left our shores to surf. It’s also the first time I’ve ever experienced sublimely perfect waves like that.I’d experienced what I thought were good waves on occasion at my home beachie in Durban, but nothing could prepare me for this.These “average” Indo days were on par with some of the best days back home.
I spent the first few days surfing Lakey Peak in Sumbawa. This is a phenomenal wave. I’d literally spend the whole day out there,for days on end. One night I paddled in after dark. The water was warm as a bath tub. Whilst paddling I looked down and noticed it wasn’t reflections of the stars above that I was seeing. As my eyes adjusted I noticed I was paddling through a cloud of phosphorescent green plankton: thousands of these tiny, dancing green dots. The water was glowing around me, a surreal experience. After a few days of Lakeys I decided to explore a bit. I didn’t have to go far. I found a left, or a series of lefts right next door called Nunga Doras. It was a long paddle out there but once I got out I had long runners all to myself for about five hours. It’s something you need to experience for yourself. You’re sitting there and you can see these waves coming from a mile away.
You just sit there, waiting for these bombs rifling down at you–knowing they’re going to break in that exact spot.
And when you get one of those, it’s something you won’t forget. Each and every wave was a keeper that day.
In Bali I surfed Kuta reef, Balangan, Bingin and what came to be my favourite in the area; Uluwatu. I spent the rest of my time in Bali buying trinkets to take home, sampling all things mycophillic, being tattooed, dodging street vendors, scooting around in that crazy traffic and hanging out at Single Fin (if you’re single, go here on a friday night). There’s more to Bali than all of this though. The culture is extremely rich. The place is alive, buzzing. Believe in spiritual stuff or not, you can’t help but be influenced somehow by something intangible about the place. Everywhere you go you smell incense in the air. People are making daily offerings of food, flowers and incense to the spirits and gods. Even appeasing demons with offerings to balance it all out. This grounding comes through in the humble and kind demeanour of the local people you meet.
I met my life partner on that trip.She eventually moved to SA and we’re now married. It’s been a while and we’re yet to go back. She’s homesick. I’m missing those waves.
Hopefully soon. ”
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